Detailed Guidance to Make a Hat

A stunning up-turned hat is finished with fundamental techniques. I would like to introduce such techniques in detail. Earlier in the month, I have been to London and taken a full grasp of techniques. I would like to write the post and record what I have learned in London. The post is only a private record or memory jogger, recording some work flows in make the Sinamay Hat. Over the last several months, it’s obvious that manufacturing methods could not be just remarked with simple words like right or wrong, because every millinery own their preferences, tips and techniques. I am glad to see other ideas involving design, sewing and cutting from other people, it they would like to share it with me.

Let’s get started. I have chosen 1.75m of Sinamay, gauge 22 millinery wire and 25 inches of Petersham ribbon.

Tip 1    Measure the Widest Part of the Brim

The width of two bias stripes depend on the widest part of the brim block. So it’s essential to figure out the precise width of the part.

Tip 2    Soak Bias Strips in Water

In order to soft those bias strips, they should be soaked in water for five minutes. Please submerge them in cold or luckwarm water, and keep both the container and water are clean.

Tip 3   Blot Bias Strips with Soft Towels

After five minutes soak, lift two bias strips from the container, and blot them carefully with kitchen towels, removing excess water. Then try to pin strips to outside edge of brim, leaving every point 6 inches center to center.

Tip 4    Mark the Overlapped Point with a Pin

After position all points, then remove the plastic block and sew strip ends together as planned. Trim seams until two centimeters. Then press them by hands to flat. After finish one strip, the other one could be processed in the same way.

Tip 5    Lay Both Wrong Sides of Two Strips Together

It could keep seams cross in this way. The adjust positions of them and pin them roughly together.

Tip 6   Mix Water Based Solution in the Ratio 1:3 (1 stiffener: 3 water). Submerge strips totally into stiffening solution for five mins. Then dry them with kitchen towels.

Tip 7   Fix Bias Strips on the Outside of the Block

It should note that all pins should be at a same angle to keep fabric in place. The pin the inside edge of the brim in an opposite direction. In the process, please stretch the layers out and pin them in place, leaving the fabric smooth. Then, the brim also needs to be put to a side for faster drying.

Tip 8   Line up Grain of Two Squares

Select two squares of fabric in a large size, so that they could cover the dome block and create the crown. The grain also needs to line up for a better appearance. It would be perfect that grains crisscross with each other. Then submerge them in stiffening solution for five minutes. The last step is to blot excess solution carefully. Therefore, two important parts have been finished.

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